Fujifilm FinePix F660EXR

The Fujifilm FinePix F660EXR is a digital camera with an Advanced Compact designation. Stand-out features of the F660 include a 16 megapixel EXR CMOS 1/2 inch sensor, 15x 24-360mm equivalent zoom lens, 1080p Full HD movies, 8fps continuous shooting and a 460,000-dot 3-inch LCD screen. The F660EXR bursts with other technology to aid photography as well as full manual control for the more advanced user. Priced at around £185 / $245, the Fujifilm FinePix F660EXR digital compact camera is available in Black, Red, Blue and Champagne Gold.

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Fujifilm FinePix Z1000EXR Review

The new Fujifilm FinePix Z1000EXR is a stylish digital camera with a lot of features packed into its slim frame. Sporting a 16 megapixel back-illuminated (BSI) EXR-CMOS sensor, 5x optical zoom, 3.5 inch touch screen LCD, Wireless Image Transfer to smartphones and social networking sites, full 1080p HD movie capture with stereo sound, sensor shift image stabilisation, top ISO 6400 sensitivity, 1600% dynamic range and up to 12 frames per second continuous shooting, on paper the Z1000EXR seems to be too good to be true. The Fujifilm FinePix Z1000EXR costs £199.99 / $279.95 and is available in pink, white or green.

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Nikon Coolpix S8200

The Nikon Coolpix S8200 is a new travel-zoom camera featuring a 14x zoom lens with a versatile focal range of 25-350mm. Measuring just 32.7mm thick, key features of the S8200 include a 16.1 megapixel back-illuminated CMOS sensor, high resolution 3 inch LCD screen, full 1080p high-definition movies with stereo sound, lens-shift Vibration Reduction, 1cm macro mode, shooting mode dial and a fast auto-focus system, shutter-lag and startup time. The Nikon Coolpix S8200 also offers target-finding auto-focus mode, Easy Panoramas, 6fps continuous shooting at full resolution, in-camera HDR imaging, a range of special effects and advanced Night Landscape and Portrait modes. Available in three colours, Black, Red and Gold, the Nikon Coolpix S8200 costs £279.99 / €325.00 / $399.9

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Canon PowerShot A4000 IS Review

The Canon PowerShot A4000 IS replaces the A3300 as the new top-of-the-range model in the affordable PowerShot range of digital cameras. Featuring a 16 megapixel image sensor, new 8x optical zoom lens complete with image stabilizer and a 3 inch LCD screen, the A4000 IS sports a slim and lightweight metal body in four different colours. Other highlights include 720p HD movies, 32 shooting modes including Smart Auto and Easy modes with Scene Detection Technology for point-and-shoot operation, 6 creative filters, Face Detection, Auto Red-Eye Correction and the DIGIC 4 image processing engine. Available in red, pink, silver, black and blue for £149 / $179 we find out if the Canon PowerShot A4000 IS deserves its place at the top of the Canon A-series range.

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Photographic Lenses

Since optical designs of photographic lenses (wide angle to telephoto) differ so radically we will not go into detail about optics. This lesson will cover a basic discussion of lenses and some good tips on lens use and care. Lenses are designed to refract (bend) light rays. Here is a basic convex lens (crude drawing below). Notice that this bends the light towards the center of the film plane. A magnifying glass is a basic convex lens.

A concave lens bends the light away from the center. In modern camera lenses, you will find a variety these lenses with some individual elements oddly shaped.

Below is a cutaway illustration of a typical camera lens. Notice the different shapes of the elements. The science of optical design has become quite sophisticated and as it has progressed we, the photographers, have benefited with sharper, faster, lenses with greater color purity.
 

 Depth of field is a term we use in dealing with the sharpness of objects in our field of view. We know the subject we focused on will be sharp, but what about objects in front of, and behind? We control the sharpness of those objects by using THE APERTURE which is built inside each lens.

 

The aperture is used primarily for controlling the exposure (the lesson on Exposure follows this page, be patient) but it also controls the depth of field (depth of sharpness would have been a better term). Words cannot explain this as well as visuals so take a look below at how different aperture settings can control the sharpness of objects in front of, and behind, the subject you are focusing on:

Wide open .. f2.8 to f4.5

“Optimum” .. f8 or f11


Stopped down …. f16 to 32

If the lens aperture is “wide open” the depth of field is very shallow… notice how the runner (below) is sharp and the other players are out of focus. However, if you close the aperture all the way down objects in front of, and behind, will appear much sharper (see below).

By keeping the aperture wide open (left) we give the runner a “3D” look. He stands out among the out-of-focus players and our eye is drawn to him. If we close the aperture down (right) more objects are in focus and the runner gets lost in the crowd. 

 

Therefore, if you have a camera that offers Manual Control, use “depth of field” to help draw attention to the objects you consider important. Now to some other tips lenses … TIPS ON LENSES: We always use a UV filter in front of the lens (instead of bothering with lens caps). The filter protects the lens and blocks out unwanted, hazy UV light. The glass used in photo lenses is covered with a coating (to correct some color problems) therefore, you should be very careful when cleaning the lens. We suggest that you not use lens cleaning fluids, rather a gentle blowing (your breath has moisture) followed by a gentle wiping with a clean, soft cloth or lint-free napkin. If the lens is seriously smudged then put a drop of lens cleaning fluid on the cloth and gently wipe. DO NOT apply lens cleaning fluid directly onto the lens… the fluid could get into the edges and destroy the adhesive that keeps the element attached to the barrel. Don’t bring a lens in from extreme cold … the moisture inside will instantly freeze up the whole lens. It is best to carry the camera under your winter coat when not in use. When making photos you should make sure the lens is in the palm of your hand, freeing up the fingers to focus. This takes the pressure of the lens mount AND provides for more steadiness. When using a telephoto lens you should also tuck your elbow into your side … which offers you more camera support (i.e., less shake).

When carrying the camera on your shoulder (using the strap) the lens should point inward to protect the glass and keep it from banging into other things … like little people. You’ll find that the camera is now positioned in such a way that when you reach for it, it will go into your hand easier and feel more natural.

 

FILTERS: There are numerous filters out there, some designed to correct color/light problems … others add special effects. We will discuss three basic filters (which you probably should have). UV/HAZE filter: It cuts out ultra-violet light rays. Although invisible to the naked eye, ultra-violet rays give bluish tint and haziness in color photographs. UV/HAZE filters make the picture clearer. This filter does not block enough light to cause you to make an exposure compensation, therefore it is should be kept on the lens at all times to protect the lens surface. POLARIZING filter: This filter subdues undesired reflections from non-metallic surfaces such as water, windows, etc. When used in color photography it will darken blue sky by blocking atmospheric haze. By eliminating that haze skies will be bluer, red objects will be redder …. in fact all colors will be much more saturated and true. CLOSEUP filters: These are simple lenses that, when attached to the front of your lens, will allow you to focus much closer … allowing you to make full-frame images of very small objects. The more powerful the closeup filter, the more you will have to “open up” the lens, because these filters do “absorb” some of the light rays. The filter should come with instructions that will tell you how much exposure compensation you should make. If not, simply experiment … AND take notes. Next we need to look at

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Light and The Photographer

 Light is the primary working tool of the photographer. Light is the visible portion of the electro-magnetic spectrum. The spectrum starts from red, the weakest of rays, all the way to violet which is the strongest of rays.

Light rays from the sun are considered white and they contain all the colors of the spectrum. Black is the absence of any color.
When we place a prism in front of a white ray, the prism will diffract (separate) that light into
all the colors of the spectrum. Stop for a minute and watch this:

When we place a LENS in front of any ray, that lens will simply refract (bend) that ray.

So, being in focus simply means moving the lens elements forward and backward until all the rays coming toward the camera from the subject meet at one point; the focal point on the film.
In the illustration above, you will see a point where the rays meet.  That point is also called the film plane.   At that point, all light rays of the subject must meet to accomplish sharp, focused pictures.
Here’s a quick primer before you move on to shui photography lesson #2: Light and the Human Eye. You’ll learn that your eyes combine colors differently than colors are combined when painting.

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A Basic Refresher On Using Your Camera

Most adjustable cameras are quite similar. You should be able to use these pictures to find the controls on your camera. However, we will also use a typical “Point and Shoot” camera in a few of the illustrations. Their controls are quite similar to digital camera controls.
If you are ONLY concerned with digital cameras then visit Digital Cameras, I strongly recommend you follow my lead if you really want to learn photography, by focusing on your photography skills.

Check for Film

Make sure there is film in the camera. There is only ONE way to be sure, wind the rewind lever (see pic, turn in the direction of the black curved arrow) about 6-8 times. If it tightens up you have film inside. If it winds easily, no film.
Before you put film in be sure to set the film speed on the dial. On this camera it is the shutter speed dial. It’s just set by lifting the dial and turning.

If you have a totally automatic “point and shoot camera you should have a window on the back. A slit that allows you to see what film you have inside. If there is no film the slit will simply look black.

Check the Camera’s Batteries

Check the battery. If it is dead your camera will usually operate at one speed (usually 1/90th).
If the camera won’t work, try cleaning the battery before buying a new one. A pencil eraser does a real good job. These batteries tend to oxidize and you need to clean that coating off so it makes a good connection. (The battery is usually found on the bottom of the camera, underneath a round, slotted screw). On Point and Shoot, and digital, cameras the battery compartment is on the right hand side.
If the camera still doesn’t work, get new batteries. If it STILL is kaput, take it to a good camera shop.
For a quick primer on Film and Batteries visit Film Types.

Loading Film

To load the camera you need to open the back. A lot of cameras require you simply lift the rewind knob to open the back. Some cameras have a latch on the left (see red dot in the pic, the latch is just below it) that you must press to lift the rewind knob. Other models have a sliding latch on the left hand side of the body.
Once open, place the film cartridge in the chamber, as shown, and push the rewind knob down to lock the cartridge in place. Then, pull the film to the right and insert into the slot. Close the back and advance the film three frames.

Using a Flash

If you want to use a flash you mount it above the prism on the “hot shoe” mount. (See the mount at left edge of picture) You must set the shutter speed at the correct speed or below. The orange number “60″ on the shutter speed dial (May be slightly different on your camera) indicates the fastest
shutter speed you can use with a flash. You may use any shutter speed at, or below, the speed indicated in red. More on flash below.

Initial Settings

Notice that the wind lever is “open”. Doing this turns the internal light meter on. Pushing the lever inward shuts off the battery, saving battery power. You can read the light meter by looking inside the viewfinder. You will usually see pointers, that need to be lined up, OR you’ll see blinking LED lights. Green indicates proper exposure and Red means you must change the aperture or shutter speed. We usually set the shutter speed first….


… and then adjust the aperture. You can see the aperture ring in the photo, it has 5.6 inline with the yellow line. To learn more about exposure control click Exposure Control.
The round button to the right of the lens is used to unlock the lens for removal.
At the front of the lens you will see a clear filter. It is a Haze filter, which helps reduce haziness AND is kept on the lens at all times since we don’t use lens caps (except when we pack for traveling).

The Self Timer is located (in the photo) to the left of the lens. It has a white stripe on the lever. Crank it downward, push the shutter button and dash in front of the camera to make a self-portrait. It usually takes 10 seconds for the timer to wind down and trigger the shutter.
The Depth of Field lever is located above and to the right of the Self Timer. It is either a round button or a lever like this. Depressing it will close the aperture (to wherever you have set it) so you can determine the approximate depth of field (sharpness).
We try to avoid aiming the flash directly at the subject. Instead, aiming the flash upwards – bouncing the light off the ceiling – will spread the light and give a softer, more even lit picture without harsh shadows.
For more info on Flash Photography visit Flash Photography.
Point and Shoot and digital cameras have flashes that cannot be bounced. I usually put a piece of Mystic tape over the flash head to soften the light. You can also put a piece of very thin napkin or toilet paper over the flash head. It really makes a difference.

Camera Protection and Maintenance

We hardly ever keep our camera in the leather case that usually comes with it. These cases are too cumbersome and they discourage camera use. If you put a Haze filter on the lens you’ll protect it just as well.
And, we are reluctant to squirt lens cleaning fluid on the lens elements. Better to simply breath moisture SOFTLY onto the glass and gently wipe it with a lint-free napkin.
Please write down the Hints and try to follow them for a few rolls of film. These hints will improve your photography quite a bit.
PLEASE REMEMBER… when you push the shutter button DO NOT jab or punch that button. SQUEEEEEEEZE it. By doing so you eliminate any camera movement and improve you chances of making a sharp photo, you may want to even pay attention to your breathing and gently breath out as you squeeze the shutter. In other words, punching the shutter release is the biggest cause of fuzzy photos.

Camera Hints

1. Read the directions!!!!!
2. Stick with one film (and film) speed until you thoroughly understand how it works …. at least for the first 5 or 6 rolls.
3. Stick with one good processor… forever.
4. Take notes on the first 5 or 6 rolls. when you make mistakes you’ll immediately be able to troubleshoot your mistakes.

You should have a solid knowledge of photography, optics, light, composition, etc. before you start going into the advanced courses.
If you have forgotten the basics, I strongly urge you to start at the beginning with Photography 101. I cannot stress too much how important it is to have the information provided in the basic lessons. They provide a solid foundation and will definitely help you make really fine photographs. MAKE fine pics, not just take ‘em.
Here is a diagram of controls for a typical SLR. See how many match your camera.

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